Day 6 – “The Passage of the Marshes”

A view of Coronation Bay from Enokhuk Inn. (Photo credit: John Kelly)
A view of Coronation Bay from Enokhuk Inn. (Photo credit: John Kelly)

The amount of sunlight that seeped through the curtains as I woke up indicated that there was a bit of fog this morning. A glance out the window confirmed my suspicions. I rolled out of bed and completed my pushups and sit-ups for the day. Actually, I fell behind a few days ago, so I did twice as many today to start to make up lost ground. It has become a necessity to incorporate this into my morning routines up here. It is not common for people to go on runs around here, partially due to the ever-present risk of running into a bear or other large mammal. Although I would love to see a bear at some point on this trip (at a safe distance), I would prefer not to see one when I am a mile outside of town by myself with no defense except the blindingly reflective qualities of my Irish skin. As a result I have taken to doing these minor workouts to hold off accumulating too many pounds from all of the delicious meals provided to us by Nadene and Johnny. I have never left a meal hungry that’s for sure. When I first signed on to come to the Arctic I thought meals would consist of Ramen noodles and bread! I could not have been further from the truth.

A raven surveys its domain, while setting its wing tips alight with the sun's rays. (Photo credit: John Kelly)
A raven surveys its domain, while setting its wing tips alight with the sun’s rays. (Photo credit: John Kelly)

The community aspect of this project is part of what makes it so great. In each city we visit, Matt has established a relationship with the local Hunters and Trappers Organization (HTO) and individuals at each location have offered to assist us with our work. These relationships are critical to the success of this project – without local help and knowledge we would limp along each step of the way. The HTO of Kugluktuk assists in many other scientific research studies to help understand their ecosystem. They have participated in shorebird studies, caribou tracking, fish population monitoring, and much more. Jorgan and Christian, our two local research assistants, are prime examples of this commitment from the community to continue adapting their knowledge base for the organisms and environments they interact with on a daily basis.

The Broad-Leaved Willow Herb has started to grow through the thick mat of dead plants left from the last growing season. Although only a few inches tall, these flowers are the harbinger of summer, providing bursts of color amongst the drab colors left from winter. (Photo credit: John Kelly)
The Broad-Leaved Willow Herb has started to grow through the thick mat of dead plants left from the last growing season. Although only a few inches tall, these flowers are the harbinger of summer, providing bursts of color amongst the drab colors left from winter. (Photo credit: John Kelly)

Today Greg and Matt headed down to meet Christian and Jorgan at the Kugluktuk HTO to teach them how to collect the water samples. While they went to do that, Rob and I stayed behind at Enohkuk Inn to hold down the fort.

The first plane to land at Kugluktuk Airport in several days arrives. Heavy fog has prevented necessary groceries and other materials from arriving in this remote town. (Photo credit: John Kelly)
The first plane to land at Kugluktuk Airport in several days arrives. Heavy fog has prevented necessary groceries and other materials from arriving in this remote town. (Photo credit: John Kelly)

One of the great aspects of this trip has been the ability to catch up on several things that I have not had the opportunity to work on since last summer. I grabbed a cup of coffee and got to work. We worked through lunch and chatted with Johnny and Nadene. Greg and Matt did not get back from collecting samples until about 3:00 PM, but when they had settled in we checked to see if they were interested in going for a hike. Greg agreed, so we packed out bags and donned our boots.

Roy, a resident of the small town of Kugluktuk, brings by a carving he made of two narwhals made out of soapstone. He has been carving for the past 30 years. (Photo credit: John Kelly)
Roy, a resident of the small town of Kugluktuk, brings by a carving he made of two narwhals made out of soapstone. He has been carving for the past 30 years. (Photo credit: John Kelly)

The hike started out on the high ground to the south of town. We traipsed around the rocks and bluffs overlooking the river. We stumbled upon a stromatolite, which is an ancient life form that is presumed to be one of the first organisms to produce oxygen gas (O2) on a large scale.

A stromatolite sits atop the bluffs overlooking the Coppermine River. A stromatolite is a type of organism that lived millions of years ago in the ocean before it ended up here. (Photo credit: John Kelly)
A stromatolite sits atop the bluffs overlooking the Coppermine River. A stromatolite is a type of organism that lived millions of years ago in the ocean before it ended up here. (Photo credit: John Kelly)

The presence of stromatolites in oceans around the planet dramatically changed the composition of earth’s atmosphere.

The view from the top of the bluffs overlooking the Coppermine River. (Photo credit: John Kelly)
The view from the top of the bluffs overlooking the Coppermine River. (Photo credit: John Kelly)

How did it end up on a cliff in northern Canada? Two of the usual suspects of global rearrangement, continental drift and glaciation, most likely deposited this ancient organism at its current location.

Researchers Greg Lehn and Rob Macdonald look out at the delta of the Coppermine River from the bluffs above. (Photo credit: John Kelly)
Researchers Greg Lehn and Rob Macdonald look out at the delta of the Coppermine River from the bluffs above. (Photo credit: John Kelly)

We explored the bluffs and eventually found ourselves on a four-wheeler track (“quad” as they are referred to in Canada) that lead into the lowlands toward the river.

Plants in the tundra begin to produce oxygen gas (O2) as the summer season kicks into full swing. (Photo credit: John Kelly)
Plants in the tundra begin to produce oxygen gas (O2) as the summer season kicks into full swing. (Photo credit: John Kelly)

The ground squished and slurped every step we took. It had an uneasiness about it that made me wonder what our steps did to the soil as we carefully made our way across the delta, or floodplain, of the river.

The trail through the soggy tundra. Much of this trail was either submerged in water or the soil was completely saturated. (Photo credit: John Kelly)
The trail through the soggy tundra. Much of this trail was either submerged in water or the soil was completely saturated. (Photo credit: John Kelly)

Greg described the soil here as walking on a wet mattress. With every step the ground shifted as though on springs. Water seeped into every footprint.

The valley floor extends into the distance. (Photo credit: John Kelly)
The valley floor extends into the distance. (Photo credit: John Kelly)

The delta of the river was saturated with water. I quickly regretted not wearing my rubber boots. We sloshed along further. Several times, I reached sections of the trail where water lapped at the rim of my boots, waiting to flow over at any moment if given the opportunity. We reached a creek that was too wide to cross and turned around. The hills gracefully rose to our left again as we proceeded back toward town.

The rim surrounding the delta (floodplain) of the river separates the slightly drier tundra above from the extremely saturated land below. Walking on the delta is comparable to walking on a waterbed. (Photo credit: John Kelly)
The rim surrounding the delta (floodplain) of the river separates the slightly drier tundra above from the extremely saturated land below. Walking on the delta is comparable to walking on a waterbed. (Photo credit: John Kelly)

This was my first experience with arctic tundra, and more specifically arctic tundra that was no longer frozen. As the project progresses I presume this will become much more commonplace as the ground continues to warm and thaw for summer.

Fog moved in as we sat down to dinner, which prevented any further exploration.

The town of Kugluktuk at its darkest moment during the summer. The sun never completely sets this far north! (Photo credit: John Kelly)
The town of Kugluktuk at its darkest moment during the summer. The sun never completely sets this far north! (Photo credit: John Kelly)

I caught up on a bit of work and sat in the common room of Enokhuk Inn with a cup of coffee in hand until late in the evening. The side of me that is always on the go wanted to be out in the field again. On the flip side, there was something special about the peace and quiet that can be found up here if one is willing to listen. It is easy to find noise in many places these days, but it can be much more difficult to find quiet. I closed my computer and finished my cup of coffee while the sun drifted close to the horizon behind the sheet of fog.

The view of the sunset from Enokhuk Inn. The clouds on the horizon present the closest thing to the actual horizon during the summer months where the sun never completely sets in the Arctic. (Photo credit: John Kelly)
The view of the sunset from Enokhuk Inn. The clouds on the horizon present the closest thing to the actual horizon during the summer months where the sun never completely sets in the Arctic. (Photo credit: John Kelly)

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