Category Archives: Wildlife

Day 7 – Seals, I have been “Waiting for You”

Greg gearing up for a great day out on the water. (Photo credit: John Kelly)
Greg gearing up for a great day out on the water. (Photo credit: John Kelly)

I woke up with a start to my 6:15 alarm. I had been dreaming about going back out on the water in our 10-foot inflatable boat. The boats have three main chambers that are filled with air and a fourth chamber that helps form a small keel on the bottom of the boat. In the dream, one of the main chambers had been catastrophically damaged while we were out on the water. The boat started to sink and take on water – cold, bone-chilling water. As we had discovered the day before, the water near the surface hovers around 14 degrees Celsius (that’s about 57 degrees Fahrenheit for everyone reading this in the states). The temperature begins to plummet quickly as you get deeper. The most incredible thing to me was discovering that the water near the floor of the estuary is actually BELOW freezing – nearly 2 degrees below Celsius in fact. For those who remember chemistry from high school, that’s actually around 28 degrees Fahrenheit. Regardless of the specifics, all I remember in the dream was that the water was really, really cold. I thought about this dream as I showered and headed out for breakfast with the team. I made sure to grab an extra bit of warm coffee, you know, just in case that dream became a reality…

The view of Kugluktuk from the boat, nestled on the north side of the hills surrounding the town. (Photo credit: Robie Macdonald)
The view of Kugluktuk from the boat, nestled on the north side of the hills surrounding the town. (Photo credit: Robie Macdonald)

After a quick breakfast we regrouped down in the garage to prepare our gear for the day. Dry bags were stuffed with lunches, an extra jacket, hat, and other gear in case the weather turned bad. The previous day we had spent nearly seven hours out on the water, and up in the Arctic weather can change dramatically in that amount of time. We loaded the truck and began taking the gear to the loading dock. I volunteered to stay and watch the gear while everyone else returned to grab the remaining equipment. The sun was shining, the sky was a deep cerulean blue, and the air temperature was pleasant. Best of all, there were not many mosquitos – not exactly bad conditions for relaxing outside while everyone else runs back to the Inn to finish packing the truck!

A few small homes on one of the islands in the middle of the Coppermine River estuary. (Photo credit: Robie Macdonald)
A few small homes on one of the islands in the middle of the Coppermine River estuary. (Photo credit: Robie Macdonald)

We loaded the boats more efficiently today than the previous day. The most difficult part is always transporting and attaching the motor to the back of the boat. The motors Matt chose for the project could not be large because we have to carry them between the plane and the mouth of the river whenever we land at each sampling site. Therefore they are relatively light – a mere 50lbs or so. More importantly, they are awkward to hold. Waves that rock the boats make process of attaching the motor to the back of the boat all the more difficult. Once the motors were attached and all gear was checked we cast off from the dock toward our remaining two sample locations in the estuary of the Coppermine River.

Matt taking the boat to the other sampling spot. (Photo credit: Robie Macdonald)
Matt taking the boat to the other sampling spot. (Photo credit: Robie Macdonald)
Driving the boat back to town after a great day of sampling - and seeing a seal! (Photo credit: John Kelly)
Driving the boat back to town after a great day of sampling – and seeing a seal! (Photo credit: John Kelly)
Greg getting ready to drop the depth and salinity measuring device in the water. (Photo credit: John Kelly)
Greg getting ready to drop the depth and salinity measuring device in the water. (Photo credit: John Kelly)

The water was as smooth as glass. Small waves rose and fell gently past the boat. The blue sky reflected off the water. The air was still enough that a few mosquitos that were brave enough to follow us out from the dock were able to keep up. Despite our few vampire-esque stowaways allowed for by the lack of wind, the weather added to a beautiful morning to be on the boat – “So much for my nightmare about a rough day on the water,” I thought.

Two small islands in the middle of the estuary for the Coppermine River. (Photo credit: John Kelly)
Two small islands in the middle of the estuary for the Coppermine River. (Photo credit: John Kelly)

On our way out to the first sampling location I noticed a small black object floating barely above the surface. I quickly told Greg, and we both watched it for a few seconds before it disappeared silently below the rolling waves. My heart skipped a beat.

Seal #1 popping up to say hello while we were collecting samples. (Photo credit: John Kelly)
Seal #1 popping up to say hello while we were collecting samples. (Photo credit: John Kelly)

Sure, on paper my job while I was here in the north was to help collect water samples at each river we travelled to. However, perhaps my greatest reason for uprooting myself from my mildly relaxing summer in St. Louis was to have the opportunity to see wildlife. More specifically, I want to see the most iconic group in the Arctic Ocean – marine mammals. Although we didn’t get a close enough look to identify the black bobbing object before it dipped below the surface of the water, my heart was racing because I knew that there was a good chance I could have just seen my first whale, seal, or some other marine mammal. It was going to be a good day.

Recording data from the CTD to get a picture of the water temperature, depth, and salinity. (Photo credit: Robie Macdonald)
Recording data from the CTD to get a picture of the water temperature, depth, and salinity. (Photo credit: Robie Macdonald)
Tunafish sandwiches made by Nadene at the Enokhok Inn. Unfortunately I repacked them in a bad way and they got smashed. Minus the dent in the middle they hit the spot! (Photo credit: John Kelly)
Tunafish sandwiches made by Nadene at the Enokhok Inn. Unfortunately I repacked them in a bad way and they got smashed. Minus the dent in the middle they hit the spot! (Photo credit: John Kelly)

Forty-five minutes later we arrived at our destination. We dropped the anchor into the water and the rope in the well of the boat came alive. It slithered over the large inflated tubes and plunged out of sight. This spot was deep – just what we were looking for. We prepared to measure the depth and salinity (salt content). Greg dropped the salinity device into the water and it reached the end of the line without striking bottom meaning it was at least 28 meters (approximately 90 feet) deep! After a few more measurements, we began collecting water samples from the estuary. My favorite part of the process was being able to feel the difference in how cold the water got as we pulled water from greater depths. As any good scientist would do, I even paused our work briefly to take a brief taste test of the briny water that was below freezing. Needless to say it was extremely cold.

Seal #2 sneaking a glance at the boat before disappearing quickly below the waves. (Photo credit: John Kelly)
Seal #2 sneaking a glance at the boat before disappearing quickly below the waves. (Photo credit: John Kelly)

As soon as we began sampling, I noticed another black object bobbing at the surface 50 meters away. It appeared to rotate back and forth for a moment and was gone before I could say anything. Five minutes later it was there again, but this time I saw it in time to tell Greg and we both got a good look at it. It was a seal! Now what type of seal you may ask, well, at first we weren’t really sure. We later found out from describing what we saw to some locals that it was a ringed seal (Phoca hispida)!

Seal # 3 peering above the waves like a periscope. (Photo credit: John Kelly)
Seal # 3 peering above the waves like a periscope. (Photo credit: John Kelly)

Sampling went by very quickly at that station because every chance I could I was looking all around the boat for any signs of more seals. Finally we had to pull away from that spot and began the long trip back to the dock. We met up with Matt and Robie along the way and took a few more salinity measurements. I was excited to get to see the seal as we were stopped at our last station, but I could hardly stay in the boat on the way back when we saw another twenty seals!!

A pod of ringed seals (Phoca hispida) hanging out in the water on the edge of one of the sandbars separating the Coppermine River's main channel from Coronation Bay. (Photo credit: John Kelly)
A pod of ringed seals (Phoca hispida) hanging out in the water on the edge of one of the sandbars separating the Coppermine River’s main channel from Coronation Bay. (Photo credit: John Kelly)

Although the pictures didn’t turn out great, I didn’t mind. I was just glad to get to be so close to an animal that so few people get a chance to see. The trip home didn’t drag on after all – in fact I wish it had taken more time. Long story short, that experience “sealed” the deal, and the day, for me.

p.s. For those curious creatures out there reading this blog, yes, the title is an obscure and very random song reference for your reading (listening?) pleasure: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bHigkvUpVqY

Day 8 – “The Shadow of the Past”

The morning started out similarly to most other mornings on the trip. We all woke up gradually and made our way into the common room to have breakfast. Cereal and toast – simple items and yet they never get old. We each pulled out our computers and worked as the morning progressed.

A male and female raven take shelter behind the Hamlet building out of the wind. They took a break from tending to their nest to preen their feathers in the sun. (Photo credit: John Kelly)
A male and female raven take shelter behind the Hamlet building out of the wind. They took a break from tending to their nest to preen their feathers in the sun. (Photo credit: John Kelly)

We still had two more full days in Kugluktuk after today, but even though we had explored most areas around town, we all wanted to get out and go for a hike.

A family takes a trip around town on their quad with a trailer. (Photo credit: John Kelly)
A family takes a trip around town on their quad with a trailer. (Photo credit: John Kelly)

After another filling lunch, Rob made for the door. I did not want to miss my opportunity for a hike today, so I grabbed my bag and laced up my hiking boots. Greg decided to join us too. Matt stayed behind to watch the second half of the World Cup game.

A bird perches atop a 100+ foot cliff, ambivalent to the floor below. (Photo credit: John Kelly)
A bird perches atop a 100+ foot cliff, ambivalent to the floor below. (Photo credit: John Kelly)

We set out in hopes of finding the stromatolite we had found a couple days earlier. We first climbed the other hill that rises to the west of town. We descended on the opposite side of the hill and traversed across the soft tundra between the two exposed rock faces. A species of gull caught an updraft of wind and hovered confidently above our heads as we set food on the new rock cliff.

A species of sea gull catches an updraft from the edge of the cliffs. (Photo credit: John Kelly)
A species of sea gull catches an updraft from the edge of the cliffs. (Photo credit: John Kelly)

We wandered around the spot where we thought we had seen the stromatolite earlier this week, but we could not find it. In the distance I heard the distinctive call of a raven. On the valley floor below a raven was hopping carefully across the tundra.

Can you find the raven? This brazen bird was willing to put up with the mobbing behavior of a male and female bird for the chance at finding their nest. (Photo credit: John Kelly)
Can you find the raven? This brazen bird was willing to put up with the mobbing behavior of a male and female bird for the chance at finding their nest. (Photo credit: John Kelly)

Overhead, a medium-sized brown bird repeatedly mobbed the raven below. Mobbing is a behavior seen in birds to protect their nest, mate, or hatchlings. The interesting thing to me is that in each situation I have observed mobbing behavior, a smaller bird has been attacking a much larger bird. I am not sure if this is a consistent pattern with all bird species, but regardless I watched closely. From what I could tell the raven was searching carefully for something on the ground, possibly a nest. Eventually the raven gave up and flew off. The smaller bird did not leave the raven’s retreat to chance. Instead, it provided an escort off of its premises and occasionally moved in close and plucked a few feathers from the raven. Nature can be a rough place to live…

Researcher Greg Lehn takes in the view of Coronation Bay. On the horizon, ice still clogs the coastline. (Photo credit: John Kelly)
Researcher Greg Lehn takes in the view of Coronation Bay. On the horizon, ice still clogs the coastline. (Photo credit: John Kelly)
Dr. Rob Macdonald, Ph.D. stops to search for more stromatolite fossils. (Photo credit: John Kelly)
Dr. Rob Macdonald, Ph.D. stops to search for more stromatolite fossils. (Photo credit: John Kelly)

We continued toward the edge of the town past the pump station where the Coppermine River flows into Coronation Bay. As we made our way down to the water level we passed various species of flowers that had recently appeared on the hillside.

Purple Mountain Saxifrage (Saxifraga oppositifolia) grows resiliently on a rock. (Photo credit: John Kelly)
Purple Mountain Saxifrage (Saxifraga oppositifolia) grows resiliently on a rock. (Photo credit: John Kelly)
Entire-Leaved Mountain Avens (Dryas integrifolia) burst into the sunlight. (Photo credit: John Kelly)
Entire-Leaved Mountain Avens (Dryas integrifolia) burst into the sunlight. (Photo credit: John Kelly)

These small bursts of purple, yellow, and white were in stark opposition to the drab brown vegetation that served as their backdrop.

Dr. Rob Macdonald, Ph.D. improvises to climb this snowy face by punching in steps with his boots. (Photo credit: John Kelly)
Dr. Rob Macdonald, Ph.D. improvises to climb this snowy face by punching in steps with his boots. (Photo credit: John Kelly)

As we neared the easternmost point of the Kugluktuk, we noticed a series of crosses on the other side of the river. This was Kugluktuk’s older cemetery that can no longer be used. The existence of the cemetery, just like the people living in town, is being threatened by a changing climate.

The old cemetery across the Coppermine River. It is threatened by the thawing of permafrost and eroding riverbanks encroaching on the graves. (Photo credit: John Kelly)
The old cemetery across the Coppermine River. It is threatened by the thawing of permafrost and eroding riverbanks encroaching on the graves. (Photo credit: John Kelly)

Years ago, the cooler weather each year kept the ground from thawing completely during the summer. In the Arctic, this is a big deal. Ice and permafrost help to hold the ground together to create a stable platform. It also minimizes erosion, which can claim large chunks of soil and land from the edge of a river. As the ground has thawed the bank has become more eroded each year. What is the result? Several graves are only a few feet from becoming uncovered. Although there has been a new cemetery started in more stable part of town, the thought that climate change has the potential to reach beyond the grave speaks to the unexpected consequences we have yet to witness from this global issue.

Researcher Greg Lehn walks along the shore of the Coppermine River. (Photo credit: John Kelly)
Researcher Greg Lehn walks along the shore of the Coppermine River. (Photo credit: John Kelly)

At the river’s edge the rocks had been smoothed dramatically compared to the same rocks higher up. All of the ice on the shore was gone. We trekked along the water’s edge back around to town. We spent the rest of the day inside, enjoying the seemingly endless supply of coffee. I went to bed early, looking forward to getting an early start in the morning.

Day 7 – “Buy-N-Large”

Willow bush buds emerge from the tips of each branch, hoping to reproduce successfully during the short growing season in the Arctic Circle. (Photo credit: John Kelly)
Willow bush buds emerge from the tips of each branch, hoping to reproduce successfully during the short growing season in the Arctic Circle. (Photo credit: John Kelly)

I slept in a bit and woke up to a thick layer of fog outside my window. The temperature outside was a breezy 40 degrees Fahrenheit. I grabbed a quick breakfast and got to work. Lunch snuck up quickly and (predictably) it left me in a near food-coma like state. Over the past several days, we had wandered to many places around town. However, the one place I still wanted to explore was the beach. We all packed our bags after lunch and headed toward the beach for a hike.

Three flags fly outside of the Hamlet office in Kugluktuk. From the left, the Kugluktuk flag, the Canadian flag, and the Nunavut flag. (Photo credit: John Kelly)
Three flags fly outside of the Hamlet office in Kugluktuk. From the left, the Kugluktuk flag, the Canadian flag, and the Nunavut flag. (Photo credit: John Kelly)
Researchers Greg Lehn and Rob Macdonald discuss the interesting geology of the region. The rock beneath them is metamorphic, but below that layer is a layer of sedimentary rock - a form of shale. This rare event is caused when rock that has been melted from heat and pressure below gets pushed through a gap in sedimentary rock to the surface where it flattens out. (Photo credit: John Kelly)
Researchers Greg Lehn and Rob Macdonald discuss the interesting geology of the region. The rock beneath them is metamorphic, but below that layer is a layer of sedimentary rock – a form of shale. This rare event is caused when rock that has been melted from heat and pressure below gets pushed through a gap in sedimentary rock to the surface where it flattens out. (Photo credit: John Kelly)

What I saw there made me consider this beautiful place through a different lens.

Candle ice breaks up along the shore as water drains into Coronation Bay from the tundra above. (Photo credit: John Kelly)
Candle ice breaks up along the shore as water drains into Coronation Bay from the tundra above. (Photo credit: John Kelly)

When I was a sophomore at Saint Louis University, I took a course titled “Conservation Biology” with Dr. Tom Valone, Ph.D. In the first week of class, Dr. Valone mentioned a disturbing, but vital, assumption that is made in every situation regarding conservation biology.

The once drab beach is slowly waking from its winter slumber. These grasses and small plants mark the first beach-goers to stake out their spot on this town's sandy shores. (Photo credit: John Kelly)
The once drab beach is slowly waking from its winter slumber. These grasses and small plants mark the first beach-goers to stake out their spot on this town’s sandy shores. (Photo credit: John Kelly)

The primary assumption is that humans have impacted every ecosystem on the planet, and in order to manage an ecosystem, the human element or role in each system must be acknowledged. There are the obvious signs of this principle of human impact, such as a town constructed where a forest once grew or a commercial fishing ship that pulls in 100 tons of fish per year. This assumption might seem unimportant and obvious, but consider for a second what this means on a large scale.

A black trash bag sits quietly on the beach as the season's new plants begin to peak their stems out of their winter shelter. (Photo credit: John Kelly)
A black trash bag sits quietly on the beach as the season’s new plants begin to peak their stems out of their winter shelter. (Photo credit: John Kelly)

If you decide to travel to the middle of the Amazon rainforest, the highest peak of Mount Everest, the continent of Antarctica, or the bottom of the ocean, a human impact, or footprint, is visible here too. Partially due to globalization and population growth, there is no longer any place on earth where we can actually say with certainty that the area is “untouched.”

Researchers Rob Macdonald and Greg Lehn walk on the edge of the shore, examining rocks and trash washed to the water's edge. (Photo credit: John Kelly)
Researchers Rob Macdonald and Greg Lehn walk on the edge of the shore, examining rocks and trash washed to the water’s edge. (Photo credit: John Kelly)

This is a sobering fact. Okay, I will be honest – it is simply depressing. As we walked onto the beach outside Kugluktuk, the lecture from Conservation Biology replayed in my mind as I was confronted with one example of the impact we have left – trash.

Trash of all shapes, sizes, colors and compositions could be found along the shoreline. Coke cans, grocery bags, Styrofoam cups, fishing line, potato chip bags, and plastic bottles were scattered everywhere. Even a canoe lay buried in the sand, forgotten by its previous owner.

A "Sik Sik," a type of ground squirrel, has adapted to city life in Kugluktuk. Similar to the beaches outside town, trash is a major issue in town that is evident in this Sik Sik's habitat. (Photo credit: John Kelly)
A “Sik Sik,” a type of ground squirrel, has adapted to city life in Kugluktuk. Similar to the beaches outside town, trash is a major issue in town that is evident in this Sik Sik’s habitat. (Photo credit: John Kelly)

The item that stood out to me most of all was a small green alien with three eyes. This extraterrestrial visitor had apparently been chosen by “The Claw” to spend its days floating around the ocean. The organism was actually a toy from the movie Toy Story and it was floating at the water’s edge.

This 3-eyed alien found his way onto an Arctic beach, just one sign of the trash floating in the ocean or discarded carelessly. (Photo credit: Amazon.com)
This 3-eyed alien found his way onto an Arctic beach, just one sign of the trash floating in the ocean or discarded carelessly. (Photo credit: Amazon.com)

Planet earth had not seen an alien creature like this before. In fact, in many ways all of the trash on the beach would have been considered alien not long ago. A century ago, humans had the potential to impact the planet on a global scale. However, the extent and magnitude of that impact has increased significantly from past to the present. The trash found on this remote beach in Kugluktuk is one example of how much larger our footprint on earth’s ecosystems has grown.

A shorebird bobs gently in the water. Many shorebird species have been known to consume and die from ingesting trash. (Photo credit: John Kelly)
A shorebird bobs gently in the water. Many shorebird species have been known to consume and die from ingesting trash. (Photo credit: John Kelly)

As we walked along the shore, I found myself overwhelmed by the extent of the problem. Trash was everywhere, and there seemed to be no way to stop the flow of new trash. I believe that individual actions can have a large impact. When I saw so much trash in a place that I expected to be pristine, I shut down. I could not muster my normal response, which would be to do what I could to improve the situation – it all seemed too much. However, with any gargantuan task, it is important to remember that even small moves in the right direction can shift momentum. I decided to pick up ever piece of trash that was directly in front of me on the return trip. By the time we had returned to the main hill in town, I had an empty bleach bottle, a Cool Whip container, several plastic bags, and a chips bag – a small portion of the trash that I passed on the beach. This was enough to remind me that issues such as this can be fixed, if we all work to try to keep our own beaches clean. Most of us have seen the movie Wall-E. If you were like me, when you saw how the movie depicted the trash left by the humans before they left on ships, you probably thought, “That will never happen to us.” Although Wall-E exaggerated this concept (let’s hope…), the crux of the problem is still there. If we treat our planet like a garbage dump by throwing anything anywhere, then there will always be sunsets, hikes up mountains, and trips to the beach that will be changed because of the trash that interrupts our experience. If we cannot begin to clean up these places and prevent more trash from being deposited here, then the only thing we will be doing is throwing away our chance to experience nature as it was intended. We will always assume in conservation biology that all ecosystems are impacted by humanity – my hope is that the impact that we leave is a positive one.

A busy raven parent responds to the cries of his or her offspring. The newly-hatched chicks demand constant attention and care. I guess in the interest of being modern, these parents also wanted to offer their offspring cable TV... (Photo credit: John Kelly)
A busy raven parent responds to the cries of his or her offspring. The newly-hatched chicks demand constant attention and care. I guess in the interest of being modern, these parents also wanted to offer their offspring cable TV… (Photo credit: John Kelly)